The Landscapes of Nin binh: From Riverways to Hidden Caves

Xin chào..!!

Imagine starting your day surrounded by beautiful landscape, boating through tranquil waters framed by towering limestone mountains, green and golden paddy fields stretching endlessly before you. Picture walking amidst a lake filled with blooming lotus flowers, their pink petals swaying gently with the breeze. And as if that weren’t enough, you find yourself atop a mountain, taking in a view that defies imagination: a stunning lotus-filled lake on one side and a meandering river cutting through lush rice paddies on the other. Sounds like a dream, doesn’t it?

Welcome to Ninh Binh Province in North Vietnam, located approximately 95 kilometres from Vietnam's bustling capital, Hanoi. This beautiful region is renowned for its mesmerizing beauty, featuring mountains, waterways, and sprawling paddy fields that create a picture-perfect setting. Beyond its natural allure, Ninh Binh boasts a rich tapestry of history and culture, offering visitors an opportunity to explore some of Vietnam’s most iconic landmarks.

Drive to the countryside 

On the third day in Hanoi, we set out to explore the stunning landscapes of Ninh Binh Province. Despite the scorching May heat, the excitement of seeing new places kept our spirits high, a sentiment every traveller can relate to.

Our day began early at 8 AM, as our guide, Ben, began picking up guests from various hotels in Hanoi's Old Quarter. With his enthusiasm and exceptional storytelling skills, Mark turned the two-hour drive into an engaging experience. As we left the bustling city behind, the countryside of Vietnam unfolded like a serene painting. Rice fields stretched endlessly that reminded us of our home Northeast India. The picturesque drive set the perfect tone for the adventures that awaited us in Ninh Binh.

The Ancient capital

Our first stop was at Hoa lu- the ancient capital of Vietnam. Hoa Lư is protected by a natural wall with surrounding Trang An limestone mountains and Hoang Long rivers. There are two temples from the 17th century at Hoa Lu, which are copied to the original from the 11th century. They are the Dinh Tien Hoang Temple and Hoan Le temple. They are dedicated to the founder of the Dinh dynasty and its successor.  Although the Le Temple is smaller than the Dinh Temple, it has a quite mysterious atmosphere. It has three halls, including a sanctuary, an incense burner and main palace. Especially, archaeologists found many remains of ancient architecture and old palace that were skilfully carved. Visitors will be attracted by some beautiful Pagodas such as Ngan Xuyen Pagoda, Nhat Tru Pagoda. These sites are for Vietnamese people to worship and to remember the ancestors.

Entrance to The Capital 

One thing to keep in mind that proper attire is required to enter the temples. Short dresses and shorts aren’t permitted, as a sign of respect for this sacred site. If you’re wearing shorts, don’t worry, visitors are provided with cloth wraps, similar to the practice at temples in Bali, to ensure modesty. For those who love a bit of adventure, renting a bicycle is a wonderful way to explore the area. For a small fee, you can roam around the charming streets and soak in the local atmosphere at your own pace. 

One of the unexpected highlights of our visit was the breathtaking beauty of the streets adorned with blooming red royal poinciana and pink crepe myrtle trees. Their hues added an charm to the already picturesque setting. As luck would have it, it was the peak blooming season for these trees, and we noticed them flourishing not only in Hoa Lu but also along the major streets of Hanoi.

Visiting Hoa Lu is like stepping back in time. As you explore the temples, pagodas, and surrounding landscapes, the stories of emperors, dynasties, and Vietnam's early days come alive. It's a place where history and nature intertwine, offering an unforgettable experience for every traveller.

Just outside the main entrance to the ancient capital, vendors greeted us with an array of souvenirs and locally handcrafted products. They showcased their beautiful creations, from traditional Vietnamese bamboo items and umbrellas to hand fans and vibrant scarves. It was hard to resist the temptation of these charming keepsakes, each one telling a story of Vietnam’s rich culture and artistry.

A feast: Fill your stomach quickly

Next, we headed to a Vietnamese buffet restaurant for lunch, which was included in our tour. The restaurant was full of tourists, all savouring the local cuisine and sharing their experiences. The buffet spread was a feast for the senses, offering a variety of dishes that ranged from chicken and goat to squid, alongside an array of sides and condiments.

Eager to sample everything, I filled my plate with small portions of as many items as possible. The highlights? Chicken Pho, a classic Vietnamese noodle soup served in a flavourful chicken broth, was a comforting choice. The fried rice served as a versatile base for the different side dishes. One of the standout items was the goat meat, fried with chilies and cut into small, flavourful pieces- a spicy and delightful treat. There were also boiled options and other delicacies, but with so many dishes on offer, it was impossible to remember every name from the little cards beside them.

Lunch at the local Vietnamese Restaurant

The meal was a perfect introduction to the diverse and delicious Flavors of Vietnamese cuisine. It wasn’t just about filling our stomachs; it was about tasting the essence of the region through its culinary heritage. As I sampled the diverse dishes at the buffet, my mind processed only the main ingredients—chicken, goat, squid—rather than the intricate names of the dishes. The food was delicious, and I noticed something striking: Vietnamese cuisine doesn’t rely heavily on spices, yet it packs a depth of flavour that’s both subtle and satisfying.

While I was enjoying my culinary exploration, some of my fellow travellers, as habitual Indians, were already craving dal chawal. It’s understandable- our comfort foods hold a special place in our hearts. But personally, I believe in stepping out of my culinary comfort zone when visiting a new place, especially for a short trip. After all, isn’t travel about experiencing the unfamiliar? For me, trying the local cuisine is an essential part of the journey, a way to immerse myself in the culture and create lasting memories.

Unfortunately, not everyone shares this perspective. As a travel planner, I’ve often met Indian tourists who insist on including Indian breakfasts and dinners in their international itineraries. This preference not only limits their culinary experiences but also adds to their expenses since meals at Indian restaurants abroad often come at a premium.

I’ll admit, it can be a bit frustrating for me. Why travel halfway across the world only to stick to the same diet? But at the end of the day, it’s their choice, and I respect that. We all have our own way of connecting with a place, and for some, comfort food is as essential as the journey itself.

An hour was allotted for lunch, which was not enough for trying all the delicious dishes. While I couldn't sample everything, I made sure to fill my stomach with as much as I could. 

Pedaling across the village

The day’s itinerary included a bicycle tour, and those who opted out of cycling stayed behind at the restaurant to relax. Although the humidity was high, the cloudy weather made it more bearable, and the trees lining the streets provided a cool, refreshing breeze.

We were joined by 10-12 other participants, and together, we set off on our cycling adventure. We pedalled through the streets surrounding the restaurant, eventually entering a charming village. The path was shaded by a variety of trees, with one stretch lined with betel nut trees. The combination of nature’s beauty and the mild weather made for a peaceful and enjoyable ride. We ride along a narrow road, rugged with mud and stones, flanked by rice fields that reflected greenery on both sides. As we continued cycling, we passed towering limestone mountains and led us to a bridge over the Ngo Dong River, where we paused to take in the view. From here, we could see numerous boats gliding by, each rowed by foot and carrying groups of tourists. This was to be our next activity, following the bicycle tour.

Three cave and the boat

After an hour of cycling, we arrived at the starting point for the boat ride. This part of the tour was dedicated to exploring Tam Coc, the centrepiece of our full-day sightseeing adventure.

Tam Coc, which translates to "three caves," gets its name from the trio of natural limestone caves carved by the Ngo Dong River. The boat ride offered a tranquil and picturesque experience as we floated through these caves.

The beauty of Tam Coc is so captivating that it has earned the nickname "Halong Bay on Land." This enchanting title comes from its resemblance to Halong Bay’s limestone karsts, which rise majestically from the sea, mirrored here by the mountains scattered across Ninh Binh's sprawling rice fields. 

I boarded a small boat, with only two passengers allowed per ride. After a few minutes of settling in, wearing life jackets, and finding a comfortable position, we were ready to go. The woman assigned to glide our boat greeted me with a warm smile, her eyes crinkling with genuine friendliness. I smiled back and responded with a cheerful "Xin chào," the Vietnamese greeting.

Native woman rowing boat with her feet at Tam coc

I’ve noticed that most of the boat gliders were women and skillfully row boats with their feet. We glided along the Ngo Dong River. The zigzag path of the river revealed breathtaking new peaks with every turn, like a live drone shot from a movie unfolding before our eyes. It’s no surprise that some scenes from Kong: Skull Island were filmed here.

At one point, our boat passed under a small bridge, the same one where we had stopped during the cycling tour. The flow of the boat felt soothing, almost meditative. As we continued, we came across vendors rowing alongside tourist boats, selling a variety of items ranging from local fruits and snacks to handcrafted souvenirs, photo frames, and art pieces. Their conversations were a mix of broken English, mentioning prices and offering "discounts" and chatting in native language with the boat gliders. 

Near the riverside, I noticed a few photographers equipped with DSLRs, capturing candid shots of tourists from a close distance. They would then show these photos, hoping to make a sale. For some, this was likely their daily routine or a profession they had chosen to sustain their livelihood. Their presence added a unique charm to the experience, showcasing the resourcefulness and spirit of the locals.

The river flowed through the rice fields, resembling a canal cutting through a sea of green. In some areas, the rice stalks had begun turning golden, a sign that the harvest was near. I noticed a woman along the riverbank, clearing the grassy edges to make way for the boats. The locals seemed to share a close bond, cheerfully calling out to one another, laughing, and cracking jokes in their native language. 

As our boat approached the first cave, I was struck by the sudden change in atmosphere. The sound of water splashing against the cave walls echoed throughout, mixing with the faint whisper of the wind passing through. Inside, the ceiling was a natural masterpiece, curved, dotted with jagged stones, and sharply edged in places. Some parts of the cave were so low that taller visitors, especially those over 6 feet, would need to duck to avoid hitting their heads. Even at my height of 5’6", I found myself bending slightly at certain points.

Curious, I dipped my fingers into the water. The cool sensation was soothing. The cave’s interior felt like nature’s own air-conditioned space, a welcome contrast to the heat outside.

As we came out on the other side, the river resumed its journey through the sprawling rice fields, leading us toward two more caves. Each turn of the river unveiled a new perspective, leaving me in awe of Tam Coc’s mesmerizing beauty. Along the riverside, I noticed a few locals clearing the area, possibly preparing the land for planting vegetables. Unfortunately, there was no one to ask, as our boat glider spoke only limited English. The peaceful scenery around us kept us immersed in the experience as we continued toward the next cave.

Each of the caves was unique in size and structure. What fascinated me even more was the changing colour of the water. In some places, it reflected shades of green and blue, while in others, it turned a muddy brown. After crossing all three caves, we reached the end point of the tour and turned the boat around to head back. Once again, we passed through the caves, relishing the cool and pleasant weather inside. The tranquillity of the caves, coupled with the sound of water against the boat, made the return journey just as mesmerizing as the first.

The beautiful landscape of Tam coc

On the return light drizzle, almost like a fine spray, began to fall. We hadn’t brought umbrellas, but thankfully, it wasn’t heavy rain, just a gentle sprinkle of tiny drops. Carrying an umbrella is highly recommended when visiting Tam Coc for both to save you from sun and rain. Over the three days we spent in the area, we encountered short bursts of rain each evening, only for the mornings to greet us with sunny skies. This unpredictable weather is something to keep in mind when planning your trip.

I spotted a few local restaurants along the riverside with beautifully set up to blend with the surrounding scenery also some temples in the peaceful environment. Along the way, I noticed locals selling cigarettes, which some tourists stopped to purchase. I had one in my pocket from a supermarket in Hanoi the previous day, so I decided to light it up.

The slow pace of the boat ride allowed me to fully appreciate the beauty of the landscape, with towering mountains embracing the river in every direction. The tranquillity of the setting made the journey feel like pure leisure, a time to relax and soak in the beauty of Tam Coc.

I couldn’t help but admire the hard work and skill of the local women, who spent their days gracefully rowing boats with their legs. Their strength and dedication were truly inspiring. 

One thing to keep in mind when visiting Tam Coc is that tipping is customary, and although it’s meant to be given voluntarily, the boat gliders will usually ask for it at the end of the ride. So, don’t forget to bring cash for a tip if you plan to express your appreciation. After bidding farewell to our boat glider, we made our way to the next destination: Hang Múa Cave.

Top of the Mountain

Múa Cave (Hang Múa), located in Ninh Binh, is a must-visit for those seeking stunning panoramic views and a bit of adventure. While the cave itself is modest, the real highlight lies above it, the Múa Cave viewpoint. Climbing the 500 stone steps to the top is a bit of a challenge, but it’s absolutely worth the effort. The staircase, flanked by stone-carved dragons and intricate designs, leads to one of the most breathtaking views in Vietnam. From the summit you will see the panoramic view of Tam Coc valley, the winding Ngo Dong River, green rice fields, and jagged limestone karsts. On the other side, you can spot a beautiful lotus lake.

The scenery here is especially magical during sunrise or sunset when the golden light casts a warm glow over the valley, transforming the view into something truly unforgettable. I made my way to the top of the viewpoint, and the view was absolutely stunning. From there, I could see boats gliding over the Ngo Dong River, weaving their way through the lush rice fields. On the other side, a peaceful lotus pond added to the charm of the landscape. Many visitors were climbing to the top and snapping photos in front of the dragon sculpture, so I joined in too. I attempted to reach the edge of the viewpoint, but it was so slippery and crowded that I decided to turn back for safety reasons. Still, standing at the summit and soaking in the panoramic view was more than enough to make the 500-step climb worthwhile.

Sweating from the climb, I descended and made my way to the nearby lotus lake. The lake would have been even more mesmerizing if all the flowers were in full bloom, but even with just a few blossoms scattered across the water, it was a beautiful sight. A wooden bridge, built in a simple yet elegant design, stretched out into the middle of the lake, offering visitors a chance to walk out and take in the surroundings. The bridge itself was stunning, resembling a path that might connect distant mountains, making it feel like a magical route to a hidden world.

Back to the city

As the sun set behind the distant mountains, signalling the end of our full-day tour, we hopped into the limousine, chatting with our fellow travellers and Ben, our guide for the day. The tour had left us exhausted. I gazed out of the vehicle window, watching the sky burst into vibrant hues of red, splashing across the clouds. I tried to close my eyes for a few minutes, letting my mind wander to our midnight return flight. Ben dropped us off in the Old Quarter. We once again found ourselves walking through the bustling streets as we reminisced about our last night in Hanoi.