The Glorious 25th Years of Hornbill Festival: My 3 days experiences in Kisama

How do you define color, energy, unity in diversity, excitement and celebration? Well, if you really want to feel the essence of these words then definitely you should visit the Hornbill festival ground. The Hornbill festival completed its 25th years in 2024. The biggest festival of the North East was started in 2000 as an initiative to build unity among the various tribes of Nagaland and to preserve the cultural heritage. From then the Hornbill festival became a ground of celebration and unity for the Naga People. With the passing years the Hornbill Festival also catches the eye of travelers across the world boosting the tourism industry of Nagaland which has also contributed to the other north eastern states tourism sector.

The Hornbill festival also called the festival of festival because of its uniqueness of celebrating the cultural heritage of various naga tribe for continuous 10 days. The festival is celebrated from the 1st of December to 10th December every year. It was all started in the year 2000 when the Nagaland government along with the Tourism ministry of Nagaland has decided to celebrate a festival to promote inter-tribal interaction and unity among the various tribes and preserve their cultural heritage. The state of Nagaland house of total 17 different ethnic group with different cultures.

The festival celebrated annually in the Kisama Heritage village which is only 13 kilometers away from the Capital city Kohima. The festival is a golden opportunity for the tourist to experience and understand the various culture of the Naga people. It showcases various dance forms, costumes, Rituals, ethnic food of Naga People.

During my college days, I often heard about the Hornbill Festival. The fascination only grew during my Master’s studies, as we studied deeply into the cultural festivals of Northeast India. Despite it being the perfect time to travel and explore the richness of the region, I never had the opportunity to visit or experience it firsthand. Life moved on, and even after completing my Master’s and joining work, the chance to witness the festival slipped away. However, a year into my professional journey, I finally got the opportunity to experience the Hornbill Festival.

7th Dec|2024: Road to Kisama Heritage village -welcomed by the Cherry blossoms

On the cold morning of December 7th, I arrived at Dimapur Railway Station. Following the flow of the crowd, I made my way to the station's main entrance. I then called the driver assigned to transfer me to the festival ground. Around 6:30 AM, our Alto, carrying three other passengers, began its journey towards Kisama village. The scenic beauty along the way, with mist-covered mountains and patches of clear blue sky, made the ride truly enjoyable. However, as we approached Kohima, the heavy traffic caused by the festival slowed us down and added extra half an hour in the journey. The anticipation of reaching our destination kept the excitement alive, despite the delay. Along the way, I spotted beautiful cherry blossoms lining the roadside and blooming in the distant mountains

Just after crossing Kohima, we stopped at a small roadside stall for breakfast. A kind lady was busy preparing chole, puri, and tea, filling the cold morning air with the aroma of freshly cooked food. A few other travellers heading to the Hornbill Festival also stopped here for a quick meal. The hot chole puri was delicious, providing much-needed warmth and comfort in that cold.

Finally, around 11 AM, we arrived at the Travespert campsite. It was located near the back gate of the festival ground, and the sound of performances could be heard clearly from there. After placing my luggage in the allotted tent, I took a moment to relax. My friend Lipi, part of the Travespert operations team, was busy accommodating other guests. I decided to head to the festival ground on my own. I could smell the food from a distance, the smoky flavours and the aroma of bamboo shoot filled the air. I entered through the backside gate and made my way towards the festival ground. During my last trip to Dzukou, this entire area was under renovation in preparation for the 25th year of the Hornbill Festival. I stepped into the gallery to watch the performances, and at that moment, the Bihu dance was being performed. The first half was nearing its end, and a break was scheduled shortly after.

I roamed around the ground, taking in the colourful scene. The entire area was alive with different colour, as every Naga man and woman proudly donned their traditional attire and ornate headgear. During the break, people gathered in their respective Morungs, sharing meals and enjoying each other's company. Some broke into cultural songs, while others laughed and celebrated together.

The 10-day celebration unites diverse ethnic groups, offering a vibrant showcase of culture and tradition. From morning until bedtime, the festival ground buzzes with various activities including traditional performance to musical nights. Intricately crafted models of different tribes' ‘Morungs’ are set up, highlighting their traditions, rituals, attire, and rich culinary heritage. Visitors can experience the beauty of colourful attire, try unique dishes, and experience the distinctive musical instruments, tools used in hunting and war belonging to each community. According to a report by Sentilong Longchar (M.Phil, Department of History, Tilak Maharashtra Vidyapeeth, Pune.) the Morung was a social centre where all the important rituals were conducted and it was strongly associated with the log drum, which is built with a huge gong made with a single trunk of a tree. The arrival of the enemies was also announced with the help of log drum and it was practiced as a part of their culture. In the days of head hunting, the beheaded heads were brought to the Morung and placed as a souvenir. Most of the important decisions were made in the Morung by the village elders. The Morung was more or less autonomous and was managed by the council of village elders and even conducting their own political relations with other villages. https://www.morungexpress.com/naga-morung.

Crafted model of Naga Morung of Chakesang tribe

I stepped into each Morung to observe the lively activities within. The intricately crafted models of Morungs were beautifully designed, offering visitors a glimpse into the essence of Naga life. They showcased the traditional kitchen setup, along with beautiful attire, authentic dishes, and cultural instruments. Some Morungs even featured a long drum—an impressive creation carved from a single massive tree trunk, as explained by Professor Sentilong Longchar. People were enjoying playing the drum together in a rhythmic beat. They also had live models standing in front of the Morungs, dressed in their traditional attire and jewellery.

Log Drum

Around 1:40 PM, I heard the announcement for the next cultural performances. I made my way to the ground and found a comfortable spot to enjoy the show peacefully. Each group of Naga performers, representing their respective tribes, was seated in designated sections of the stadium, marked with placards bearing their tribe's name. The vibrant mix of colours in their attire stood out, with shades of red, white, and black dominating the scene.

While I was expecting performances exclusively by the Naga people, the schedule actually featured cultural showcases from all the Northeastern states, highlighting their major dance forms. The first performance was about the Singhi Ccham or Kanchendzonga Dance also known as the Snow Lion dance, is a lion dance form in Sikkim whereby the dancers perform in a lion costume that represents the snow lion. The highlight was the lion’s playful movements, which mimicked a real lion at play, complete with expressive eye movements that captivated the audience. 

Accordingly other folk dances from the Northeast were performed. These included the Lai Haraoba from Manipur, Wangala Dance of the Garo tribe from Meghalaya, Delong Dance of the Adi community of Arunachal Pradesh- performed exclusively by men, Jagoi from Manipur, Garia Dance of Tripura, and finally, the iconic Bihu from Assam. After the exclusive performances from all eight Northeastern states, a single performance was choreographed, blending all the dances and music. It was performed to the rhythm of the Dhol, flute, and taal. It was a wholesome, goosebump-inducing moment to witness. You truly realize how colourful the Northeast is, distinct in every dance, music, attire, jewellery, and language, yet living in harmony.

A glimpse of Northeast India's folk dance collaborations

I enjoyed the performance till the very end, completely lost in the moment. But as the sun dipped behind the mountains, the cold started creeping in. I was wearing a thin layer jacket and I could feel the cold intensify, a stark reminder that in the hills, evening arrives too soon. It was then that hunger hit me, I realized I hadn’t had a proper meal all day, except for the two puris and chole I grabbed in the morning. I wandered from one Morung to another, looking for food. Everything was pricey due to the high demand. Even a simple Naga Pork Thali was priced at Rs. 400. So, I decided to wait and share the meal with my friend later. Instead, I headed to the back gate, where I found some affordable food stalls. These stalls made it easy to figure out what to eat, they hung menus outside, listing all their specials. The options ranged from chicken and beef to more exotic items like cricket, snails, silk worm, dog meat. For a food lover, it’s nothing short of heaven, a chance to try unique local flavours. But for vegetarians, those with dietary restrictions, or anyone uncomfortable with such options, I’d personally recommend giving this line a skip.

I stepped into a small stall that had all these options on the menu. Craving something simple yet flavourful, I ordered a veg thali and a Naga-style beef curry. As I waited, a group of fellow travellers arrived. The stall owner had set up a small fire, offering warmth and comfort to everyone while their orders were being prepared. I sat by the fire with other customers, exchanging small talk and sharing snippets of our travel experiences. The crackling flames and their soothing warmth made the chilly evening much more bearable.

Among the other customers were a group from Kerala, serving in the defense forces. They were trying snails for the first time, clearly intrigued by the exotic food options available here.  After about half an hour, my food was finally ready. I dug my hands into the warm rice, mixing it with the Naga-style beef curry. I took the first bite and a wave of relief washed over me. The rich, spicy flavors and the warmth of the meal were exactly what my hungry stomach needed. The meal was served simply yet beautifully, on a plate made from Kou pat (a type of leaf), placed in a bamboo basket. It felt authentic, blending perfectly with the rustic mountain setting. On the plate, there was boiled bamboo shoot, a stir-fry of wild mushrooms mixed with beans and Mejenga seeds and beef curry. The curry was packed with flavour. I could instantly taste the kick of ghost pepper, its heat blending seamlessly with the tender beef.

Naga beef thali with boiled bamboo shoot and wild mushroom

I set myself near the fire soaking the warmth and enjoying the easy flow of small talk with the other customers. The hearty meal had left me full and content. As I looked around, I couldn’t help but admire how everyone was dressed. It was a perfect blend of tradition and modernity—some wearing beautifully crafted cultural attire, while others paired it effortlessly with western elements. The scene felt like a celebration of identity, where the past and present coexisted harmoniously.

One thing that truly stood out was how effortlessly classy the Nagas looked, especially in their perfectly tailored suits. Their sense of style was perfect, radiating a blend of sophistication and cultural pride. 

I walked over to the campsite to rest for a while and recharge for the musical night ahead. Settling into a chair near the campfire, I could feel the warmth. Other travellers had also gathered around, some lounging comfortably, while others were serving themselves whisky and rum. The air was filled with laughter and giggles, creating a relaxed, festive atmosphere. The campsite management team was constantly on their feet, moving from one end to another, ensuring every guest had what they needed for a comfortable stay.

I readied myself for the musical night that was already in full swing. We arrived just in time to catch the last two songs of Naga singer KL Pamei's performance. After enjoying his set, we made our way to one of the Morungs and ordered thutse and silk worms for me and my four friends. There's always something special about sharing a meal with friends, it makes everything more fun, even if it doesn't feel quite the same when you're alone. For a cup of thutse, we paid Rs. 100, and for one stick of silk worms, about 10 to 12 worms, it came to an additional cost. In the end, even though the food didn’t quite justify the price, it was worth it just to enjoy those small moments with friends, making it all feel priceless despite the modest amount we spent.

Cultural night featuring KL Pamei

We walked to the front gate, passing by small stalls with menus hanging outside, and decided to order two plates of smoked pork for Rs. 400. Unfortunately, it turned out to be a waste of money. We barely got 10 small pieces of pork, and the rest of the plate was filled with onions and capsicum. When demand is high, everything comes at a premium, and there's no point in complaining about it. We wandered around, watching people click photos and capturing the vibrant atmosphere. Eventually, we made our way back to the campsite. The campfire was already alive with music and laughter, while some were busy drinking alcohol and others were deep in small talks.

Traditional Rice beer and silk worm

Meeting people from different places always offers an opportunity to learn and broaden your perspective. It was truly worth burry ourselves in this colourful festival, where every moment felt like a chance to connect, explore, and appreciate the richness of the culture.

I decided to order dinner at the campsite since eating out was getting too expensive, especially after already spending Rs. 300 for lunch outside. Originally, I had planned a 1night 2day stay for the Hornbill Festival, but after visiting the festival ground, I couldn’t resist staying for one more night. To make that possible, I needed to stick to a budget. After a warm dinner, everyone gathered around the campfire again, some with their bottles of whiskey and rum in hand. The atmosphere was full of energy, jamming to Bihu and Bollywood songs, dancing around the fire under the starry sky. It was pure fun, lasting until midnight.

Eventually, after a few more hours of fun I crawled into my tent, wrapping myself in the sleeping bag. I hadn't rested for even a second all day. The excitement of the festival had completely wiped away any sense of fatigue from the long journey, an overnight drive from Guwahati to Dimapur and then a 4-hour drive from Dimapur to Kisama Heritage Village.

8th Dec|2024:  Mesmerizing perfomances, food, music and campfire

I woke up drenched in sweat as the morning sun blazed directly onto the tent. Despite my initial plan to sleep a little longer, the stifling heat inside made it impossible to stay in bed. As I unzipped the tent, a gust of cold wind hit my face. Outside, the air was biting cold, but the polyester tent had trapped enough heat to make it uncomfortable inside. I stepped out and settled on the steps, letting the sun’s warmth seep into me. I made my way to the kitchen and campfire area. Some of the guests were already preparing for their trek to Dzukou Valley. It was the perfect season for travellers, a rare opportunity to experience the Hornbill Festival and the serene beauty of Dzukou Valley in a single trip. Combining the two not only made for an unforgettable adventure but also saved on travel costs, a win-win for every explorer. However, it’s worth noting that the temperature in the valley can sometimes drop below freezing in December, making warm layers essential for anyone planning to do this trek in winter.

The first half of the day passed by sitting in the sun, chatting aimlessly with friends. There’s a certain charm in those nonsensical conversations, especially when shared with good company. And, of course, when you have girlfriends in the group, it’s almost inevitable to spend hours waiting as they get ready to go out. By around 1 PM, we finally made our way to the festival ground, only to find that the first half of the performances had already ended and a break was underway. Deciding to make the most of the pause, we went to grab lunch. After an hour of wandering from one Morung to another, we settled on eating at the Sumi Morung. We ordered pork rice, priced at Rs. 400 each, and let me tell you, it was worth every penny. The pork was cooked with dry bamboo shoot, giving it a distinct, earthy flavor. The dish was served without any gravy, but the big, tender pieces of fresh meat were incredibly flavorful and juicy.

We continued exploring the Morungs, each one offering a glimpse into the rich culture and traditions of the tribes. The beautiful decorations were mesmerizing, every detail told a story. At one of the Morungs, a group of people was playing long drums, their rhythmic beats filling the air with energy. Unable to resist, we joined them. It was an incredible experience, blending effortlessly with strangers and feeling completely lost in the festival's lively atmosphere.

As we wandered through the Morungs, I took a closer look inside some of them. Each had its own charm, some showcased beautifully crafted models of traditional Naga kitchens, with hanging corns, dry fish, meat, and firewood under bamboo roofs. Others were adorned with intricately carved wooden faces, a single trunk transformed into a masterpiece. In a few, the walls were decorated with the skulls of buffaloes and Mithuns, a striking reminder of the cultural significance of these animals. Every corner of the festival seemed to celebrate the rich heritage of Nagaland in its purest form.

A glimpse inside the Morung.

The next round of performances was about to begin, featuring various Naga tribes showcasing their vibrant traditions. At first, we got the chances to see the performance of Hungiang lui (Folk song) by the Zeliang Cultural troupe.

The next performance was log drum pulling demonstration by the Yimkhiung Cultural Troupe. In the old time the log drums play a significant role in the community. It was believed to be the symbol of prosperity. During the preparation of log drum in the deep jungle the leader first makes the cut mark in the selected tree trunk and believes that if the fresh leaves fall it indicates longevity and prosperity, and if dry leaves fall it indicates misfortune to the community. During the demonstration of pulling of the log drum they sang folk song. The folk song signifies about the olden days of head hunting. In the olden days when they  brings back enemies’ head from the battlefield, the heads were present and put inside the log drum and beaten the log drum. The log drum pulling ceremony simply showcase the strength and unity among the community

Log drum pulling demonstration by the Yimkhiung Cultural Troupe

The next performance was by the Kachari tribe, who presented a traditional folk dance called Bairising Ha Khim. Following their energetic performance, the Rengma tribe took the stage with a soulful rendition of the lullaby Anga Kaghaju Khwi. Their performance beautifully depicted the traditional lifestyle of the Rengma people, where men engage in farming while women cradle their babies to sleep with soothing lullabies. Through graceful movements and expressive storytelling, they showcased the daily rhythm of life- men working in the fields for cultivation and women gently lulling their children to sleep. 

The final performance was by the Pochuri tribe, who presented Zandahtsong, a traditional folk dance. This dance is performed during the post-harvest season, typically after the crops have been gathered and safely stored. Through rhythmic movements and vibrant expressions, the performance captured the essence of celebration and gratitude for a successful harvest. The dance is a part of the feast of merit, a celebration hosted by the richest or the most influential man in the village. The feast of merit, is a feast where the host often the wealthiest and the most respected individual, invites the whole village to celebrate and partake in the feast. It is a way of showing gratitude and generosity as well as gaining social status within the community. It is usually performed as the last folk dance before dinner during the feast. The dance serves as the ceremonial closing to the celebration before the community enjoys the shared meal. These makes the dance a pivotal moment of festivity symbolizing the combination of a year’s hard work and harvest and communal share of bounty. During the performance, the group of men moves in perfect synchronization, forming a circle as they step in rhythm. They jump and sway holding traditional machetes. And in the next step moves in circular form holding each other hands.

With the final performance by the Pochuri tribe, the cultural performances for the eighth day came to an end. Next up was the preparation for the much-awaited musical night. I took this time to explore the festival grounds once again, wandering from stall to stall, gliding my hands over the beautifully crafted jewellery and traditional attires on display. The evening air was turning colder by the minute. Although I had the festival’s schedule in a PDF, I never bothered to check it. I was already so mesmerized by the experience that I felt no need to know what was coming next, I was happy to simply go with the flow.

The evening chill made the warmth of the campfire even more inviting, and we all gathered around it, waiting for the musical night to begin. By then, the group that had trekked to Dzukou Valley earlier in the day had finally returned. The group was quite large, around 25 people. Among them, I spotted Sibani, who had led the trek. We were meeting after a long time. Our conversation flowed naturally, from her experience as a trek leader to how the valley looked that day.

We talked about everything from trekkers who had little knowledge of the valley, complaining and making unnecessary demands at the mountain’s peak, to the beautiful sight of the snow-covered landscape and the frozen river. The photos they had captured were truly wholesome, the valley blanketed in snow, with delicate snowflakes resting on the grasslands, creating a scene straight out of a dream.

A travel service provider often faces similar challenges, guests who complain about trivial issues and demand luxury services in places where such expectations are unrealistic. When it comes to Northeast India, one must remember that luxury is primarily available in major cities or well-established tourist destinations where tourism has reached a stage of significant development. Most destinations in the Northeast are still in the exploration or involvement stage, meaning they lack the infrastructure for high-end services. Only places like Guwahati and Kaziranga, which have reached the development and consolidation stage, can cater to luxury demands.

From Sibani’s experience, handling guests who expect a barbecue at the Dzukou Valley campsite is nothing short of a nightmare for a travel planner. Unnecessary complaints and unrealistic demands are not only a headache for the service provider but also ruin the travel experience for the traveller themselves Yet, once the trip ends, these frustrating moments often turn into funny stories to share with friends.

With small talks and conversations, time flowed effortlessly. Soon, we headed to the festival ground for the musical night, featuring Grammy Award Ricky Kej. The night was electric. His fusion of classical and modern music created a vibe. Everyone swayed to the rhythm, dancing and losing themselves in the music. After an hour of pure enjoyment, we finally decided to grab dinner simple yet satisfying pork and rice, costing us Rs. 350 each. The concert was still in full swing, but once the stomach is full of rice, the body naturally craves a place to sit or better yet, sleep. The best part? Everyone was busy in their own world, enjoying the moment without disturbing anyone. Some stood and danced, others sat on the ground, completely lost in the music. 

The night was freezing, yet heading straight back to the tent wasn’t an option. The warmth of the campfire was too inviting to resist. So once again, we gathered around, letting its glow keep us company a little longer. I looked around some were on their phones, others were engaged in small talk, while a few sat silently, lost in their thoughts, sipping their drinks. But one thing was certain, it was a moment of relaxation for everyone. I lit a cigarette and shared it with my smoking partner, she had actually brought the whole pack, though it had remained in my pocket the entire day. The smoke, as always, was a nuisance when the wind shifted, stinging my eyes every now and then. But in that quiet, unhurried moment, it didn’t really matter.

Moving from one seat to another, I met a  guy from Bangalore who works at an advertising company. He asked me for a cigarette, and I offered one, even though it wasn’t his usual brand. Our small talk revolved around jobs, startup culture, and travel. At one point, he recommended a book- The Four Disciplines of Execution by Chris McChesney and others. I hope to read it someday to improve my leadership skills, not that I have any to begin with.

Finding time to read and write has always been a struggle, but thankfully, I’m trying to balance it between work.

9th Dec|2024: Last minute walk in the ground

The last day in Kisama was a bit hectic. Though my train was scheduled to depart at 11:30 PM, my pick-up was set for 2:30 PM since I was sharing a van with other travellers. Tupu, Hobi, and Priti had plans for shopping in Dimapur, so they left early, deciding to meet at the station later. After saying goodbye to them, Sibani and I headed back to the festival ground for some last-minute shopping mainly food and pickles. A few minutes later, Lipika joined us after wrapping up her work at the campsite.

By then, the second half of the festival’s programs was about to begin. So, instead of rushing, we decided to sit for a while and watch a bit of the performances, The 9th day 2nd half event started with a group dance to the song “Call of Hornbill,” a tribute to the 25th anniversary of the Hornbill Festival. If you want to watch the music video “Call of Hornbill” is available to watch for free on YouTube. You can find it at the following link: Call of Hornbill.

The next performance was the Bamboo Dance, presented by the Khiamniungan Cultural Troupe.  The folk dance performed by men and women in traditional attire. The dance involves jumping over bamboo sticks that are placed horizontally and vertically to create an interface. The dance is accompanied by rhythmic music. 

After that Garo cultural troup presented Jakol Kala, a traditional game similar to wrestling. Next performance by the Yimkhiung cultural troupe presented the Wochak Khüntong (Traditional way of Agriculture land clearing). Time was moving fast, and before I knew it, it was almost 2 PM. I decided to leave after watching the Kuki tribe’s performance of Vakol Lam, a folk dance. The men and women wear traditional attire and moved in perfect synchronization, holding a white shawl behind them with both hands. The sight was mesmerizing, like a group of white butterflies fluttering in unison, their large wings spanning and swaying rhythmically with the beats of the dance.

Vakol Lam folk dance by the Kuki tribe

It was time to leave, and the other travellers were already waiting for me. In a hurry, I grabbed some dried bamboo shoots and local shrimp pickle. With a heart full of memories, I bid farewell to the entire Travespert team, including my dearest friends Lipi and Sibani. I have to admit that extending my stay by one more night was truly the right decision, it gave me the chance gain more experience.